jueves, 29 de abril de 2010

Teotihuacan, Xochicalco, Monte Alban and Mitla

This is the 2nd attempt at writng this entry. The last one took me about 3 days of messing around with computers to write. I was just about to publish it, when some glitch in the stupid virus addled internet cafe computer destroyed it all....I' ll try again one more time, but it's been very, very frustrating.....

The central creation myth in Mesoamerica centres around "La pelota" or the ballgame. The myth seems to have originated with the earliest civilisations, probably the Olmecs .

In a nutshell, the story centres around a pair of twin boys who are summoned to the underworld to explain to the Lords of Death why they had made so much noise in their ballcourt above their domain. They were sacrificed, the one buried under the ball court, the other decapitated and his skull hung from a tree "pour encourager les autres". However, this skull manged to get its revenge by spitting into the hand of the daughter of one of the Lords of Death, miraculously making her pregnant. (Some annunciation!) To evade her father's anger, she sheltered with the maternal grandmother of the original twins, and gave birth to another set of twins, also boys.

In their turn, they were keen sportsmen and like their father before them, were summoned by the Lords of Death because of the racket. They were challenged by them to play ball by day and were submitted to various impossible trials at night, through which they were able to prevail by a mixture of cunning, ingenuity and sheer trickery. The culmination was being forced to play a game involving jumping over a pit of fire but they had been forewarned and simply jumped in to their fiery deaths, having primed the Lords' seers to wrongly tell their masters how to dispose of their bones, which were ground up and cast into the river. This enabled th e twins to be reincarnated with the faces of catfish after 5 days and regain their human forms after 6.

In their new bodies, they became vagabond actors, and their star turn involved the one twin dismembering and decapitating the other and bringing him back to life. The Lords of Death heard of this fabulous new spectacle, bade a command performance and were so impressed, that they begged for the trick to be done on themselves. This the twin happily did, but neglected the last part and did not bring the Lords of Death back to life. Thus was death defeated by human trickery and ingenuity. It fell to the living to reenact this drama with actual sacrifice, as resurrection and rebirth came through the act of sacrifice, especially by decapitation, as with the first progenitor twin.

Thi s is a loosely paraphrased account lifted from a brilliant book about the Maya "A Forest of Kings" by Linda Schele and David Freidel, published by Morrow in 1990: It is a riveting account of the history of the Maya Kingdoms seen through the lens of interpreting the glyphs that exist on the Mayan tombs and monuments scattered around Mesoamerica. Written with inspiring scholarship and vivid imagination it really brings this ancient civilisation to life. The pages referring to this myth: pp 74-77

Although the ruins described here are not Mayan, and were not literate and left no written histories as such, there was certainly contact between them and the Mayans, and the central myths and paradigms seem to have been similar.

In all the sites, there were ball courts, where the dramas between Life and Death, darkness and light and political disputes were sometimes settled. The rules are not known, but players wore heavy padding around their waists, one knee and one forearm to prevent bruising from the heavy latex ball, which was slightly larger than a modern basketball. Markers found on the sites depict scenes of bound captives, play between historical people or between the hero twins and the Lords of Death. Archeological evidence associates the ballcourts with captive sacrifice and political pomp and circumstance.

The Southern Ballcourt at Xochicalco, note the circular markers set into the walls

TEOTIHUACAN

Some 50 km north of Mexico city, this was already ruined and abandoned by the time the Aztecs rediscovered it. Many of the names ascribed to it were given by the Aztecs,and was reputed by them to be the birthplace of the gods. Very little is known, except that it flourished in the first half of the first millenim CE and was abandoned by about 700. The street of the dead so called is a straight avenue running North-South through the site, the most dramatic monuments being the Pyramids of the Sun and the Moon. By all accounts it was very cosmopolitan with varied communities of Mayans, Zapotecs from Monte Alban amongst others from other parts, all living there and contributing to the life. The street of the dead itself was once lined with colourful frescos. It must have been an awesome and vibrant place.

Pyramid of the Sun, taken from Pyramid of the Moon. Notice the "dead" straight Street of the Dead--- In Aztec mythology, butterflies were the reincarnated spirits of fallen warriors, whose sacred duty was to escort the Sun to its zenith on its journey from the underworld. There were legions at the top of the Pyramid of the Sun at noon, in the blistering heat, so they are still carrying out their sacred task.
Pyramid of the Sun from Pyramid of the Moon. Note ceremonial platform at the top of the first stage; a great place for meditation.

A fresco from the Jaguar Palace next to Pyramid of the Moon.A jaguar in a king's headress, blowing a conch horn, with noise coming out and falling to the ground. The jaguar was a symbol of power and battle prowess and the conch fpr the Mayans probabñy singled the arrival of the spirits of the ancestors, materialised through blood ritual.

XOCHICALCO 36 km southwest of Cuernavaca
Flourished around the same time as Teotihuacan was declining, but was probably abandoned later around 900. Smashed and scattered holy artifacts and belongings from the houses of the elite point to a disillusionment that the priestly class couldn't deliver the city from the hard times of prolongued drought. The lower cast inhabitants (whose dwellings were discovered more or less intact with their artifacts) drifted to the valleys below and resumed farming for themselves, rather than sustain an expensive ruling class.
The great Plaza Xochicalco


The Serpent Pyramid
Detail from the Serpent Pyramid
MONTE ALBAN 10km from Oaxaca in the hills to the southwest of the town. Probably formed as a cooperative effort by Zapotec villages to offset the aspiration of Teotihuacan to the North. It seems to have been mainly a group ceremonial space. Giant base relief images of "dancers" were found by the buildings just to the left of my right shoulder. They are likely to have been tortured captives, whose names and dates are inscribed with them, along with evidence of bloodletting, torture and genital mutilation. Keeping captured kings alive and using their sacfred blood for holy ritual was a way of neutralising conquered other states, as another king could not succeed a still living king.

Ludwig, a very forceful young German along with some aggressive american tourists managed to get a group of us to help pay for a guide. This Zapotec's english ranged from the unintelligible to the barely comprehensible, insisted that the "dancers" were in fact didactic anatomical diagrams and that the Zapotecs had not practised sacrifice like the ignorant Maya. Trepanning was practised, but there is no evidence of other surgery, who knows? It seemed like local spin to me and inconsistent. However, when it emerged that Ludwig's father had supported himself in South America in his youth, teaching English without qualification or much knowledge, I had to feel sympathy for our guide. Perhaps he'd paid for his course in good faith, but had been taught a version not recognisable to any actual native speaker.

In the museum, were many human remains showing deformities due to rickets and osteoporis. So diet was poor. It seems that as with a lot of these settlements, when the threat receded, the need for an elite priestly class vanished with the inability to get special favours from the gods.
Plaza Monte Alban
Unobstructed view showing scale
Performance space with great acoustics
MITLA
Built after the the dissolution of Monte Alban. It seems to have been a localised settlement. Of interest the mosaic like stonework created with different sized stones. A beautiful and intricate pattern which puts Great Zimbabwe to shame. As no mortar was used these buildings were earthquake proof. In fact there low and solid dimension reinforces this quality-

"Mosaics" on inner dwelling place walls. They were cut so that the pattern continued perfectly at the corners



Showing "mosaic reliefs" on outer walls

miércoles, 14 de abril de 2010

Murals

I hadn't realised that after independence from Spain in 1810, Mexico suffered another century of revolution, with the new epoque beginning more or less in 1910. It was at this time that there was a great interest in exploring the archeology of the pre Hispanic times in order to construct a unifying national narrative. Murals and images were seen as the best way to reach a largely illiterate population. To the left, Diego River's mural of the conquest in the Palacio Nacional, showing battles, book burnings as well as Autos de Fe. in the mural at the Museum dedicated to it, there is a pantheon of historic personalities, including the sad bloodstained and conical capped figure of Mariana Violante Cabrajal a Jewish lady falsely accused of heresy and the grandson of Moctezuma II, both burned (at different times) in the gardens of the Alameda, which used to be a site of an Aztec market and is now a buzzing garden full of trees stalls and street performers.






The Alameda













The Alameda View from Torre Latinoamericana

Diego Rivera won a competition to decorate the Secretaría de Educacíon Publico and this visual narrative extends up the 3 levels of the building with the exploitation of the poor by the church, the capatalists and the landowners (spaniards who had enslaved the Indians for 300 years or more) ending on the top level with represntations of literacy, emancipation of women and cooperation with food for all. Rivera was an admirer of Mao and friends for a while with Trotsky. He did not live long enough to be disillusioned with the reality and ruthlessness of the new state sponsored socialism, which he probably would have equated with Nazism which he also loathed.

Secretería de Educacion Publico - Courtyard of murals



Exploitation in the mines. Note the allusion to carrying the cross to calvary in the bottom left.















Arming the people for the revolution... At bottom left is an image of a worker crushing a fellow artist who dared criticise Riveira's ideology.. pretty ironic given the turn of events in Stalin's Russia and later during the Cultural Revolution in China Also Frida on the right exchanging the worker's broom for a weapon













Capitalist's feast - dining on gold coins....


















Stockbrokers' feast, dining on tickertape...


















Emancipation for all and literacy for all... the new jerusalem....if only



















domingo, 11 de abril de 2010

Mercado San Juan


My barber playing her guitar at Mercado San Juan,
Mexico City

































Colourful images of Veggie stall, Mercado San Juan

Still holed up in Mexico City....

Well I guess that it was inevitable that I would get a tummy bug at some point; having been afflicted it seemed best that I have a quiet day in the hostel and make the onward trip to Cuernevaca tomorrow.. On the plus side it gives me yet a other opportunity to see the murals at the Secretario del Educacion, which I had been so disappointed to miss on Friday.

My deepest fear at the start of the trip was that I would be so much older than my fellow travellers that they wouldn't be able to relate to me. I have made so many new friends; bright and curious people that has made this past week so special. Friends of all ages, but predominantly younger people, so thanks Jessica in CT for encouraging me. It gets confusing switching between languages, particularly between spanish and French as I tend to confuse them into franish. I was also befriended by a Jewish couple in whose restaurant I ate frequently. Sadly the Sepbardi Shul they directed me to last Friday night was shut (thought that only happened in Zim). however they did invite me to their country club (you've never seen anything like it) I went and they were right. Apparently such cooperation between communities is almost unique to Mexico (Rio being the other place) and it truly is magnificent. The Centro Deportes Israelites boast 2 olympic pools several tennis courts football pitches gyms dance studios, yoga studios, restaurant, art gallery, library, performance space (with its own mural) as well as the most incredible steam baths where the men seemed to spend hours discussing life and business. Oh, and a spa. Multiply Wingate by 100 at least. The community numbers only 50 000 out of a total population of 120 million. They are so proud of it. Apparently there is a Roditi family in Mex City also with origins in Izmir, so we surely have relatives here.

The other thing is that the guitar has been a focal point already, even though I'm having to practise like crazy to sound reasonable. People just seem to like the sound of tinkling arpeggios and scales. Some ladino numbers have had a bit of an airing. Want to be able to profit from rich musical opportunities in Colombia, Argentina & Brasil.

I will leave you now with some more rich images from Mexico City.

viernes, 9 de abril de 2010

First week in Mexico City

I should have been traveling to Mexico City, instead I was glumly nursing a Corona beer in Crouch End, wth Jenni and reviewing the days' events; unbelievably my glasses frame broke just as I was preparing to go to the airport! Jenni heroically rushed me to the opticians, then to Heathrow to no avail; I missed the flight with an ill fitting temporary frame perched on my nose.

Luckily, I was able to book for 2 days later, giving me time to sort out all the last minute things that had been glossed over in the mad rush and managed to get my original specs refurbished to boot.
First impressions on the taxi ride to the hostel. A drab town with a lot of concrete buildings in
tersected by massive streets. Although partially true, actually Mex Cit DF is a colourful, loud, and vibrant city. Straight away on checking in to the tiny hostel I started chatting to Teté who had just started her trip and knew noone. As we stepped out to walk to the Zocalo (main square) I was struck by the flowering jacarandas and the leafy tree lined Avenida Paseo de la Reforma.
Completely different to my first impression and such a pleasure to walk down.

The Zocalo itself, crowded and noisy with¨Indians¨ doing dances for tourists, innumerable sellers, and rent-a-shamans, who were cleaning the auras of their clients (99% women) and telling their future



Very striking is the Mexican search for an identity. It first became apparent seeing Diego Rivero's mural in the Palacio Nacional. So thoroughly did Cortes and the church crush the Aztec culture (surely the most treacherous house guest ever), throwing down their structures for use as building materials and burning the codices compiled by the first priests, that pre Hispanic culture is something of a puzzle to be painstakingly uncovered; so much is conjecture. The tragedy is that Cortes himself was amazed at the architecture and the conduct of people he found, but that didn't stop him from seeing them as an enemy to be completely subjugated and crushed, their culture to be eradicated. One can't help feeling this terrible sense of loss wandering around the sites and museums...




To me, this was a complete revelation. In the wake of the repudiation of the Spanish colonial yoke there has been a vacuum, a yearning for identity which has had to be manufactured by and large. There is a tremendous pride in the national identity, but with some 60% or so of Mexicans living below the poverty line, it is largely notional. The spiritual compass was smashed. leaving the indigenous people by and large disempowered. The richest man in the world (Mexican) is of Lebanese origin. After the centenary of independence in 1910, there seems to have been a concerted effort to forge an identity. Diego Rivera seemed to have a tremendous sensitivity and knowledge of symbols as well as huge talent, which helped synthesise the chaotic swirl of the local history. A huge curiosity with pre Hispanic history and artefacts is distilled in the museum he designed, Anuahacali, with alabaster windows the light is mystical and the arrangement of the artefacts by sacred element, each corner corresponding to earth, water, wind or fire. The ceiling designs paying homage to the ancient symbols... walking through raised goose bumps.




Nowhere was the vibrant spirit more apparent than at Frida Kahlo's house, the incredible synthesis of life and creativity that they both shared... seeing their work materials, the objects they surrounded themselves with and their art. She has to have been one of the most remarkable and courageous women who ever lived. The sheer tenacity to keep creating and painting when she was immobilised after surgery. The sheer sensuality and sexuality of her art in spite of her handicaps are totally inspiring.



Inge, Silvia, Paul and Teté at Casa Azul

Everywhere amid a drab background often, the city pulses with colour and life, richly apparent in the markets and in the street.










Teté at Mercado Coyoacan