Volcan Santa Maria y Santiaguito

Having just lived through Tropical Storm Agatha, I was disappointed when another deluge struck and the streets of Xela (Quetzaltenango) were turned to raging rivers once more on the eve of our departure to Tajamulco volcano, the highest peak in Mesoamerica. I just acouldn't face the idea of camping in continuous rain and not seeing anything for the mist. This was a seasonal thundershower and not a weather system, so the next day was bright and clear; to say that I was gutted was an understatement as it was too late to make the journey. So I spent the time in Xela catching up with friends, practising the guitar, and having a massage. I decided not to waste the weather entirely and arranged to hike the next day up to the peak of Santa Maria, which towers 3772m above sea level, and also conveniently overlooks Santiaguito, the volcano it spawned in 1902 before becoming dormant. The hike itself was hard work above 3000m, the ascent was some 1300m or some 4000ft, about 1000ft more than Table Mountain.

At Llano de Piñar, the starting point a little mongrel bitch called Pinta, known to the guide joined us and frolicked all the way up with us, she knew that she was a soft touch for tourists and that we would be more than willing to share our breakfasts and water with her. Agatha had eroded the path into deep gulleys, and along with the fine pumice made the path difficult and slippery at times. It was somewhat depressing when a group of 3 local youths literally ran past us on the way to the top, they were well acclimatised to the altitude having lived here all their lives.

We were rewarded with awesome views of the surrounding cordillera as well as the Pacific coast far out to the South... The volcanoes of Antigua and Tajamulco and Tacana. A ringside view of the smouldering ashtray of Santiaguito, which belched steam every now and again. At 0930, almost as if you could set your watch by it, it erupted, with the sound of the roar of a jumbo jet engine. I was looking for a nearby airport until I realised what it was. It was wonderful to witness! By 10.00am the cloud cover had formed to the south and the view was all but obliterated.. What a worthwhile cause to get up at 0430 for! Absolutely stunning although I was utterly shattered after.

Pinta the Perra

The "Antigua" Volcanoes Acatenango and Fuego from the top of Santa Maria. Lake Atitlan is to the left of double peaked Acatenango, but not visible.

The start of the walk at 0510 on a beautiful Sunday morning with mists on the plain of Llano del Piñar and Xela

The smouldering "ashtray" of Santiaguito, taken from the peak of Santa Maria

At the summit of Santa Maria 3772m- On the horizon to my left are the volcanoes Tacaná (on the Mexican border) and Tajamulco which I walked up last Thursday and is the highest volcano in Mesoamerica.

Eruption! The sound of a jumbo jet engine on the takeoff roll (and I should know!)