León

The rain pured down as I travelled to Nicaragua from Tegucicalpa. Although the final destination was Mangua, I asked to be set down in León , reputed to be a charming old colonial city, with historic significance for the revolution and a university. First impressions of Nicaragua were of a thriving farming sector. We passed many large farms with centre pivot irrigation, it seemed well organised although some fields were under water. The feel on the Nicaraguan side was somehow more friendly as well. Around León there were small holdings, with simple board dwellings, with fields being ploughed with oxen, and transport using horse and cart. It very much reminded me of Zim, but seemed far more productive.

Lazybones was the hostel of choice, a lovely old colonial house with a huge courtyard, an interesting mural and a small swimming pool out the back, as well as internet and a pool table. I elected to stay in the dormitory, partly because it was a huge high ceilinged room with well crafted hand made wooden bunk beds, but also to engage more socially. Whether this is fun or not depends on large measure who the roommates are, and as people are always coming and going it does not take long to change the atmosphere. By and large though, there was a really good bunch there. I thought that here was an opportunity to get the blog up to date for the first time ever and just enjoy being there after Tegucicalpa.

I only visited one museum; the Museum of Legends and Traditions set somewhat bizarrely in a former Somoza prison (the so called proson of the 21st) and torture centre. León has immaculate revolutionary credentials; from the poet Ruben Lopez Perez who donned a waiter's uniform and shot the first dictator Somoza in 1956, before being killed himself by the bodyguards to the 4 students who were shot in 1959 by the army during a protest against he Somoza regime. The sad thing is that the narrative of the revolution is a very thin veil over the corrupt practices of the current regime,the daily La Prensa carries frequent stories about the paranoia of the government and the state of quasi dictatorship and patronage that exists here. This seems to be the sad development of most popular movements as they become hijacked by the powerful personalities that once harnessed their passion.

The mural at Lazybones Hostel

A view from a hammock at Lazybones, the bright doorway in the background leads to the pool

The ornate woodwork of the ceiling in an old colonial era house, currently the home of Quetzaltrekkers, a voluntary organisation,where volunteers lead hikes and activities for tourists and all profits go to help street kids and social projects, like the installation of rural latrines etc. They were the organisation with which I went sand boarding down Cerro Negro.

A square to the north of the city

The main square in front of the cathedral. Horse and cart is still in frequent use.

Mural showing the demon serpent emerging from the CIA. I knew at least 2 ex-Rhodesian airforce pilots who worked for them in the contra years and who subsequently flew for MK. The people are so friendly that it makes me sad to think that foreigners could have become involved in prolonging the violence here.

A mural outside the university just off the main square depicting the killing of the 4 during the demonstration.

The Museum of Legends and Traditions. The bizarre murals are depictions of the lives and travails of the inmates. The mannequins represent Indian and Nicaraguan legendary figures and witches. Sadly local students nicked the explanations, so I cannot tell you the stories.

More of the juxtaposition of the daily life of prisoners and legends

A selection of local witches and goblins, who bring bad luck and "Toma tu Tété" who entices the young men with her ample breast

The café almost opposite Lazybones where Somoza the first was assassinated. Currently undergoing renovation apparently.

Cerro Negro, one of, if not the newest volcano in the region created from a green field in 1991 and last erupted in 1999and due to erupt again soon. The local wheeze is to toboggan down the side.

The contrast between the volcanic rock and the surrounding verdant countryside

The crater from the most recent eruption, still smoking...

The view from the top of the "piste"

Another view from the rim of the crater. On scraping back a layer of stones to a depth of a couple of inches, the rock is boiling hot

The long hot slog up

The group all dressed up

Before the run. Apparently people have been clocked going down in excess of 80km/hr.So I was a bit apprehensive.

Starting the run. After realising that it was all very manageable,and that the challenge is to keep speed rather than losing control I went down very conventionally. Some tried to surf down, but couldn't stay upright for long. I wiped out about 3 times on the first run down, the 2nd time though I managed to get up some pace without a spill. Eat your hearts out Ant and Lawrence!

The view from the bottom.It was exciting to see the dust trails and hear the whooshing rasp`of the board. The slope is in excess of 40 degrees inclination

Veterans before the 2nd run