lunes, 3 de mayo de 2010

Cuernevaca

A very quick tour through Cuernevaca. At the entrance to the cathedral, the chapel of St Teresa de la Tercera Orden, the facade having been carved entirely by indigenous craftsman. The statue on the bottom right reputed to be of Cortes himself and is one of only 2 to be found in Mexico. (Cuernevaca was the holiday destination of choice for the Aztecs, so Cortes had himself a palace built there) Inside, it was very ornate and guilde but it had no intrinsic feel of a sacred space.
Amazingly, the main cathedral with its plain stained glass and very simple and stark ornamentaion of 7 oil lamps above the altar and minimalist cross really did lend itself to feelings of peace and holiness. The frescos tell a story of martyrdom which some poor monk suffered on a journey to the new world via Japan. To me this was of secondary significance compared to the silence, the space and the spectacle of the pious praying on their knees on the bare stone floor.

One of the ubiquitous hairdressing schools in Cuernevaca; there seemed to be one on every block
The Zócalo, Cuernevaca, a bustling busy square with kids playing and yelling and the local birds doing their best to make themselves heard above the din, shrieking and belting out their bavian tunes at the tops of their voices.
Cuernevaca also had the largest coverd market I have ever seen, arranged by section from charcoal vendors, to particular foodstalls to everything you could ever think of buying. Most intriguing were the acres of stalls selling fresh produce. I'd have thought that there was far too much competion for such a tiny place, but maybe they were supplying the outlying villages too.

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