Lacandon Forest Walk

The inspiration for this hike followed a visit to "Na Bolom" or the "House of the Jaguar", erstwhile home of Frans Blom Danish archeologist and explorer and Gertrude Duby, Swiss conservationist and photographer. It is now a museum and hotel dedicated to their life work of conserving th last rain forest in meso America and the way of life of the Lacandon "Indians" who were untouched by the conquistadores and had no contact with the outside until Frans Blom came across them on one of his trips. Many of the rooms in the place have exhibits of archeological finds from the Lacandon forest as well as examples of artifacts and clothes that the Indians were using in their daily lives, all made from the local plants. The best thing apart from the place itself which still had echoes of the very vibrant relationship that the couple had and their intellectual life, was the myriad photographs that Gertrude took of the Indians during their trips into the bush... So you see why I just had to go and see it for myself.

However, the reality was that I had a stinking cold in the stinking humid heat, but didn't want to miss the walk, which turned out to be a rather tame trek with other tourists to some unexcavated ruins in the forest, with a bit of a commentary on plants we saw along the way and then a dip in a brook on the way back. So the Indians remained undisturbed in their village which was apparently much deeper in the forest, in retrospect a fine thing.

The little accommodation area adjacent to the forest was owned/run by the local Indians, though their hospitality was legendary. Supper was a mingey 3 tiny quesadillas with spoonful of guacamole. We were offered a choice of a glass of water or some chamomile tea. I said I'd have the water and the tea after dinner. I was curtly told that I had had my one drink, and that was that... Really felt like Oliver Twist with a begging bowl. One cup of coffee for breakfast, no seconds....

The Huarombo[?] tree. The leaves are smoked to put you in touch with your ancestors. Smoke too much and you go loco for good...

Leaf of plant that handily grows close to the base. When dry this acts as good roll up paper for the Huarombo leaves...

Strangler fig [parasite] taken upwards through the inside, the host tree had long since died

An unexcavated temple on our walk, the pyramid underneath is buried by the forest

The swimming place. By sitting under the waterfall, you could have a refreshing shoulder massage, the water had such force and turbulence